Papas Arrugadas with Mojos
- Alex Shearman
- May 6, 2021
- 3 min read
The Canary Islands are often referred to as Europe's Hawaii.
Both are volcanic island chains in the middle of the ocean. Both have served up reliable sun-filled fun to travellers for decades, drawn to idyllic beaches, deep blue waters and stunning scenery. Both sets of islands also lie at points much further south to the continental landmasses they belong to.
In fact, they feel continents apart.
Whereas Hawaii is distinctly more Pacific than North American in its outlook and appearance, the same nuances are true of the Canaries. Although perhaps in more ways than one.
Geographically the Canaries are much closer to Africa than Europe. Culturally, however, the Canaries sway to a much more Latin American rhythm.
The connections between the Canaries and Latin America are centuries-old. Christopher Columbus famously used the islands of Tenerife and La Gomera as refuelling stations before his Transatlantic crossings. Trade between the Canaries and the Americas then flourished, as sugar, wine, rum and other commodities took off (Tenerife still produces excellent wine). Waves of people, too, passed between the Canary Islands and Latin America - especially in times of economic hardship in Spain in the latter part of the 19th and 20th centuries, when emigration to the Americas was rife. Settlers from the Canary Islands could be found from Cuba to Florida, Puerto Rico and Venezuela. The town of San Carlos de Tenerife which still exists in the Dominican Republic today was founded in 1684 by Canary Islanders.
Today the influences of Latin America are pervasive across the Canary Islands. Instead of baguettes food stalls sell arepas, traditional Venezuelan flatbreads. The local bus service is known as a guagua, a term more commonly heard in Puerto Rico. It's not uncommon to find toucans, parrots and other exotic birds screeching from the corners of bars and restaurants. Even the music on the streets is a hip-shaking mix of flamenco mixed with reggaeton.
Another influence is the Canarian food staple: papas arrugadas. These wrinkly potatoes with their vibrant and delicious red and green 'mojo' sauces are served as sides or tapas-style across the islands and are an instant taste sensation. Earthy potatoes, fiery chillis and fresh green coriander - the flavours are distinctly American.
For excellent papas arrugadas in Tenerife visit Canarian food favourite Bodegón Viana in the town of La Laguna, a UNESCO World Heritage Centre just north of the capital Santa Cruz. Sit on the terrace outside and marvel at the architecture, myriad green and blue houses with heavy wooden doors and ornate balconies - and look down at the street below. It was La Laguna's original, grid-like street layout that provided the model that was later replicated in towns and cities across the Americas. Europe's Honolulu... or Havana?
Ingredients (serves 2-3)
For the papas:
1/2 kg of small potatoes (best are the black 'papa bonita' variety found on Tenerife, if not new or salad potatoes are fine)
2 tbs coarse salt
For the mojo picón (red mojo):
1 sweet red pepper (chopped, deseeded)
2 dried Palmera peppers (chopped, soaked in hot water)
2 garlic cloves
1 tsp sweet paprika
1/2 tsp cumin
1/2 tsp salt
2 tbs sunflower oil
1 tbs red wine vinegar
For the mojo verde (green mojo):
1 green bell pepper
1 bunch fresh parsley
1 bunch fresh coriander
2 garlic cloves
1/2 tsp cumin
1/2 tsp salt
2 tbs sunflower oil
1 tbs white wine vinegar
Preparation (30min)
1. Prepare the mojo picón. Add all the ingredients to a food processor and blend until smooth. TIP1: For less heat, remove the seeds from the Palmera peppers before blending.
2. Prepare the mojo verde. Add all the ingredients to a food processor and blend until smooth. TIP2: For a thicker sauce add more herbs and less green pepper as the pepper has a lot of water.
3. Prepare the papas. Layer the potatoes in the bottom of a saucepan on medium-high heat. Add the salt. Add cold water until the potatoes are almost covered. Bring to a slow boil and cook uncovered until the potatoes are cooked through and the water is completely evaporated (about 20min). This last step is needed for the salt to crystallise and the skins to wrinkle. Shake off some of the excess salt - and serve!

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