Paella de Marisco

Eastern Spain is a rich and diverse landscape.

Known historically as 'El Levante' - where the sun rises - the region moves from snow-capped mountains in northern Catalonia, southwards via the fertile plains of Valencia, to the parched deserts of Murcia. To the right is the Mediterranean, a warm and constant blue presence that binds these distinctive parts together.

About an hour's drive south of Valencia is the town of Jávea.

Known as Xàbia in the local dialect, it is part of a pocket of quaint little resort towns on this particular stretch of the Costa Blanca that, somewhat mercifully, have escaped the high-rise construction and package tourism of other parts of the coast. Jávea remains the summer bolthole of choice for the well-heeled city dwellers of Valencia and Alicante as well as European holidaymakers - including this writer and his excitable, sun-seeking (read also: beer-seeking) teenage friends back in the mid-2000s [N.B. Thank you Mum for your generosity and for not disowning us :) 2021 Alex xoxo] .

The town itself is split into three roughly equal parts. The old town - a warren of narrow pristine lanes which feel like they are in a constant state of siesta; the port, east of the old town - a marina of small boats, pebbly beaches and fish restaurants; and finally, the Arenal, south of the port - a long and sweeping arc of golden sand where masses of beachgoers can be found swimming, sunbathing or playing cards in the shade of tall palm trees. Above it all is the Montgó, a solitary mountain that rises dramatically from the valley floor towards the sea, and which locals say has the shape of an elephant's head.

Jávea is also the heart of paella country. The paella - which some say is Spain's national dish - has its origins in the areas around Valencia, where the Moors planted rice fields over 1,200 years ago and which are still cultivated today (the Spanish word for rice, 'arroz', comes from the Arabic 'arz'). At its most traditional, the paella valenciana is made strictly with meat and cooked in a wide paellera pan over an open fire of orange branches and pine cones, the hot flames scorching the base and forming a thick layer of delicious roasted rice known as socarrat. The paella de marisco - made with seafood - is the valenciana's delightful, if slightly illegitimate, coastal cousin.

As the sun sets and turns the sky behind the Montgó a deep saffron red, the promenades lining the port and the Arenal light up. The night markets selling sandals, seashell jewellery and other knick knacks appear and the heavy summer air fills with the sweet scent of perfume and cigar smoke as crowds begin to gather for the long Spanish night ahead. Perfect time for a paella.

Ingredients (2-3 people)

For the paella:

Half a red pepper (thinly diced)

Half a green pepper (thinly diced)

2 large tomatoes (peeled, deseeded and grated)

2 garlic cloves (minced)

200g squid cut into rings

200g clams (cleaned)

200g mussels (cleaned, debearded)

250g shrimp (peeled with tails on, deveined)

2-3 langoustines

300g short-grain rice (preferably arroz bomba variety; approx. 100g per person)

1 tsp pimentón or smoked Spanish paprika

5-6 tbs olive oil

Salt

For the stock:

1-1.5L water

1 medium onion (roughly chopped)

2 garlic cloves (roughly chopped)

1 bay leaf

1 pinch saffron

Heads of the peeled shrimp

Salt

Utensils:

1 paella pan. This recipe uses a 38cm (15in) wide pan.

Preparation (1h30)

1. Prepare the stock. Bring the water to the boil and add a generous amount of salt. Cook the langoustines (3min). Remove the langoustines and set aside to cool. Keep the water. Next peel the shrimp leaving the tails on and set aside the heads. Put a separate saucepan on medium-high heat and add 1-2 tbs of olive oil. Sauté the shrimp heads, onion, garlic and bay leaf. Turn the heat to low, add the langoustine water and leave to slow simmer for about 1 hour (for best results leave in the fridge overnight to allow the flavours to combine). When ready, use a sieve to strain the liquid into a measuring jug or bowl. Add the saffron.

2. Seal in the seafood. Put the paella pan on high heat and add 2-3 tbs of olive oil. Sear the shrimp on each side (1min), remove and set aside. Sear the squid on each side (1min), remove and set aside. Add the mussels and clams and cook until they open (2min), remove and set aside. Make sure not to wash the paella pan or else you will lose all those lovely flavours!

3. Prepare the paella. In the paella pan on medium-high heat add 1-2 more tbs olive oil. Sauté the red and green pepper until soft (5-10min). Add the garlic and grated tomatoes. Add the paprika. Add the squid. Add the rice and coat all the ingredients together. Add about half of the stock liquid and simmer until the rice is cooked through. Season with salt to taste. TIP: Calculate roughly 2.5 times the stock for the amount of rice (300g rice = 750ml stock), adding more stock in small quantities during cooking until the rice is cooked through.

4. Once the rice is done the paella is almost ready. Add the clams and mussels and gently ease them into the rice (trying not to disturb the rice too much). Layer the shrimp and langoustines on top. Remove the paella from the heat and cover with a lid or cloth. Leave to rest for 10min. Garnish with lemon and serve!

TIP 1: The type and quality of the rice is all-important. For best results get rice that cooks in 30min rather than an 'instant' brand as the longer cooking time will allow for a deeper flavour and for any rubbery squid to soften. I used Brillante Calidad de Oro.

TIP 2: Try not to stir the rice while simmering or the final paella will be starchy.

TIP 3: For great Spanish ingredients in Brussels (as well as fantastic pork croquetas) check out Sabores De España (22 Rue Archimède, Schuman).

TIP 4: For super fresh seafood in Brussels head to La Poissonnerie d'Agadir (213 Chaussée de Wavre).