Lamb Kleftiko

Baked lamb is one of the highlights of any trip to Greece.

It is often the freshest ingredient around. Especially when visiting one of the thousands of beautiful islands, there is usually an abundance of local sheep and goat which dot the hillsides, like specks of white paint on the parched brown landscape.

And lamb kleftiko is the king of Greek lamb dishes.

Succulent leg or shoulder of lamb is wrapped in paper and string along with bundles of fresh garlic, herbs, lemon juice and olive oil. White wine and blocks of salty feta or local cheese are usually thrown in. The whole is then baked for hours until the meat is tenderised in the juices and falls, literally, off the bone.

The name kleftiko has an interesting origin. Local legend has it that back in the day bands of outlaws, or klephts, would come down from the mountains and steal lambs from farmers. Not wishing to be seen they would then bake their spoils in underground pits for several days, along with lemons and other delicious local aromatics, which would eventually pave the way for the modern baked variety sold in tavernas from Crete to Corfu. Today the term kleftiko is commonly translated to "stolen" meat.

One spectacular Greek island is Milos, about three hour's ferry ride east from Athens and part of the dreamy blue-and-white variety that is typical of the Aegean. It is known as the island of colours for the deep turquoise waters that surround it, the vibrant hues of the fishermen's huts that line the sleepy waterside hamlets as well as the yellow and red sulphurous rock on the southern coast. The island is also famous for being the place where the Venus de Milo, now residing in the Louvre, was discovered two hundred years ago. It is truly a heavenly place.

When in Milos, spend your days languishing in one of the many coves or beaches. On the most south-westerly tip is Kleftiko, a chain of caves and beaches made up of shining white rock, formerly a refuge for pirates (hence the name) and now a snorkelling hotspot which is only accessible by boat.

For the best lamb kleftiko in Milos, make sure to head to O! Hamos tavern south of the main port town of Adamas. It is a restaurant just off the beach with a large shaded courtyard that has been run by the same friendly family of goat herders for over one hundred years. The lamb is wrapped in parchment and baked in the oven with their own sour goat's cheese, local herbs and wine. Perfect after a day snorkelling in the shadow of long-gone Greek pirates.

Ingredients (4 people)

1.5-2kg lamb leg (bone in)

2 garlic cloves (crushed)

3 garlic cloves (whole)

2 red onions (peeled, quartered)

2 lemons

6-8 cherry tomatoes

1 red bell pepper (deseeded, quartered)

1kg waxy potatoes (peeled and cut into thick slices)

100g feta

2 bay leaves

1 sprig rosemary

1 tbs dried oregano

1 tsp cinnamon

2 tsp mustard

50ml white wine

200ml water

Salt and pepper

Olive oil

Preparation (5-6 hrs cooking)

1. Marinade the lamb. In a bowl add 4 tbs olive oil, juice of 1 lemon, mustard, crushed garlic, oregano, cinnamon, salt and pepper. Cut small slits in the lamb leg. Using your hands, rub the marinade thoroughly over the lamb leg and into the slits. Cover and leave in the fridge for 24 hrs.

2. Preheat oven to 160C.

3. In an ovenproof dish place the potatoes, onions, peppers, cherry tomatoes, rosemary, bay leaves and whole garlic cloves. Add the juice of the other lemon, lemon shells, white wine and water. Place the lamb over the top. Seal tightly with aluminium foil. Bake in the oven for 4-5 hours, checking halfway and topping up with water if necessary, until very tender. Remove from the oven.

4. Turn heat up to 220C. Put the lamb back in uncovered and bake for 15min until slightly charred on top. Remove and let rest for 20min.

5. Crumble in some feta and serve with a delicious Greek salad.

TIP 1: For premium fresh meat in Brussels head to Wesley's Butcher Shop near Place de Jamblinne de Meux in the European Quarter.

TIP 2: For Greek ingredients in Brussels head to Philema near Chatelain, a restaurant and traiteur that has fantastic olive oils and assyrtiko wines. They have recently been added to the 2020 Michelin Guide Belgium so worth checking out!