Kalógeros Naxou

Naxos is the largest and most fertile of Greece's Cyclades.

Unlike other islands in the archipelago which can be quite barren and brown, Naxos is lush and green.

Agriculture abounds - fields of golden wheat, green vineyards and silver olive groves mingle with flocks of sheep, goats and cattle. From these derive dozens of exquisite wines, olive oils, pastries and cheeses, while some really exceptional products like the famous Naxian potato and lemon liqueur kitron also enjoy protected status and are highly-sought after in Greece and beyond.

Naxos has a marvellous mosaic of food products that stands out even in this food-rich part of the Mediterranean. But how did this come about?

One explanation is the unique geography of the island, enjoying as it does a high altitude (Naxos is home to Mt Zeus, the tallest mountain in the Cyclades at over 1,000m) which produces rainfall and cooler temperatures - perfect conditions for crops and livestock to flourish.

Another, perhaps more fun explanation, comes from Greek mythology. The story goes that Dionysus, god of wine and revelry, was born on the island and blessed it with fertile pastures and vineyards. Many years later Ariadne, the daughter of King Minos who helped Theseus slay the monstrous Minotaur of Crete, was abandoned on Naxos where she married Dionysus. Since then the people of Naxos have enjoyed bountiful food - and some wonderful vintages.

The Venetians also left a big cultural legacy. Following the fourth crusade in the early 13th century, they ruled much of the Cyclades for 350 years as part of the Duchy of the Aegean and made Naxos their capital. Italianate influences persist today in the architecture, with the walled hilltop Kastro and Catholic church perched above the main town of Chora. And indeed the food, perhaps the most obvious being the cattle and cow-derived cheeses (which also provide a nice variation to the dominance of sheep and goat) and the limoncello-like kitron.

One Naxian specialty that combines all these elements is Kalógeros (literally: monk's food), a sumptuous dish of baked aubergines with slow-cooked beef and tomato stew topped with a thick layer of buttery graviera cheese. Whether this is Greek, or Italian, or a canny Cycladic combination of both it is above all a delight of the taste buds. And of course, best enjoyed with a chilled glass of Naxian red wine. Efcharistó, Dionysus!

When in Naxos enjoy fantastic kalógeros at Doukato, a traditional restaurant that occupies a charming tree-lined courtyard at the foot of the Kastro in the old Chora.

Ingredients (4 people)

For the beef and tomato stew:

1kg chuck steak (cut into cubes)

1 medium yellow onion (diced)

500ml chopped tomatoes

500ml beef stock

1 tbs tomato paste

1 tbs sugar

1/2 tsp cinnamon

1/2 tsp nutmeg

Handful of chopped dill

1 tsp butter

Olive oil

Salt

Pepper

For the aubergines:

2 aubergines

1/2 tsp cinnamon

200g Greek graviera cheese (grated)

Olive oil

Salt

Pepper

Instructions (cooking time: 3h)

1. Season the beef generously with salt and pepper.

2. Prepare the stew. Place a saucepan on high heat. Melt the butter and add a dash of olive oil. Sear the beef on all sides, cooking in batches if necessary (2min). Remove the beef and set aside. In the same pan, sauté the onions until soft (10min). Add the tomato paste, sugar, cinnamon and nutmeg and stir. Next add the chopped tomatoes and beef stock. Add the beef and any juices back in. Stir well. Turn the heat to low and let simmer covered, stirring at intervals (1h). Remove the lid and simmer uncovered until the sauce has reduced to a thick consistency (1h30). Taste and adjust seasoning. TIP1: For best results, leave overnight to let all those amazing flavours combine!

3. Prepare the aubergines. Preheat the oven to 180C. Cut each aubergine in half lengthwise (stems on) and score the flesh in a criss-cross pattern, being careful not to pierce the skins. Brush the flesh with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle some cinnamon over the top. Bake in the oven flesh side up until golden brown (25min). Remove from the oven and, using a fork, crush the now-soft flesh to make 'boats' for the stew.

4. Fill each aubergine boat with stew. Sprinkle a generous amount of graviera cheese over each one. Place the aubergines back in the oven and bake until the cheese has melted (5min). Remove from the oven and garnish with some fresh dill. Serve immediately!

TIP2: For extra Greek cheesiness, crumble in some fresh xynomizithra just before putting back in the oven. The sour xynomizithra is a gorgeous complement to the nutty graviera.

TIP3: If you can't find real graviera you can substitute it with any similar hard cheese, like gruyère.