Irish Stew with Colcannon

Donegal in the northwest of Ireland is beautiful, wild and different.

Unlike the pretty lanes and patchwork fields of Kerry in the south, the lush wetlands of Laois and the central counties, or even the mournful mountains of Mayo on the west coast, Donegal by comparison is desolate and untamed.

Its name comes from the Gaelic Dhún na nGall, which roughly translates to "fort of the strangers". This is a historical nod to the Vikings who landed here in the 9th century but it continues to be relevant today. Donegal remains an outlier. It is geographically cut off from the rest of the island, sharing most of its land border with its fellow Ulster counties but to which Donegal is not politically joined, and only a tiny (8km) land border with County Leitrim in southern Ireland.

This isolation has contributed to Donegal's unique identity and a reputation - embraced by the local tourism board - as the "wild child" of Ireland. So while the accent is distinctly northern, it is also part of the Gaeltacht - one of the bastions of primarily Irish-speaking regions in the country. Gaelic can be heard on the streets, in shops and in pubs - where the wail of flutes and fiddles and thudding bodhráns can be heard on a daily basis.

The landscape is also breathtaking. Tall mountains. Dramatic sea cliffs. Alternating grey and purple fields where pockets of sheep stand resolute and unflinching against sheets of rain brought in from the Atlantic. The air itself is a perpetual blend of ocean spray mixed in with woody turf. Without warning, the clouds part, revealing emerald green valleys and vast, golden beaches.

This is Ireland at its most dramatic and authentic.

When in Donegal, spend a day climbing the Sliabh Liag, which at 600m forms the highest sea cliffs in Europe. After a day braving the elements, choose any number of cosy pubs in the towns along the coast - Ardara or Killybegs are wonderfully welcoming - and warm up with a pint of cold Guinness and a hearty bowl of traditional Irish lamb stew. It won't be long before the fiddles arrive.

Ingredients (serves 4)

For the stew:

1kg lamb shoulder or neck (diced)

1 onion (chopped)

2-3 large carrots (peeled, thick diagonal slices)

2 sticks celery (chopped)

3-4 floury potatoes (peeled, roughly chopped)

1 bay leaf

1 bunch thyme

1 tbs tomato paste

500ml Guinness

500ml beef or lamb stock

2 tbs butter

Salt

Pepper

For the Colcannon:

1kg floury potatoes (peeled, chopped)

1 leek (white and light green parts only, thinly diced)

250g kale leaves (rinsed thoroughly, stems removed)

1 spring onion (thinly diced)

150ml full fat milk

100g butter

Salt

Pepper

Preparation (2 hrs)

1. Prepare the stew. Season the diced lamb with salt and pepper. In a saucepan on medium-high heat, melt 1 tbs butter and brown the lamb on all sides. Remove the lamb and set aside.

2. In the same pan, melt another tbs of butter and fry the onions and celery until soft (10min). Add half the potatoes. TIP: The potatoes will naturally thicken the sauce to the point of disintegrating so no need for flour. Keep the other half for adding later to have firmer potatoes in the stew.

3. Add the Guinness and let the alcohol cook off (2min). Add the stock, tomato paste, bay leaf and thyme. TIP: Add the thyme sprigs whole and pick them out at the end. No need to spend lots of 'thyme' picking tiny leaves off! ;-)

3. Turn the heat to low and leave to simmer covered for about 1h, stirring occasionally. The consistency should not be too thick or too runny. Simmer uncovered for the last 20-30min to let the sauce reduce; if too thick add more stock. About 20min from the end, add the carrots and the rest of the potatoes. Adjust seasoning to taste.

4. While the stew is cooking prepare the colcannon. Place the potatoes in a pot of cold salted water and bring to the boil. Cook for 10-15min until potatoes are soft and almost falling apart. Drain the potatoes, cover to keep warm and set aside.

5. While the potatoes are cooking, melt some butter in a separate pan on medium heat and fry the leeks until very soft (10min). Add the kale leaves until they wilt (5min). Pour in the milk and bring to a simmer. Pour the milk, leek and kale mixture over the potatoes along with the butter and mash until smooth. Season everything with salt and pepper.

TIP: For great Irish lamb in Brussels, not to mention other premium quality meat products (and Belgian craft beers) go to Wesley's Butcher Shop (Place Wappers 3-4).