Cà Ri Gà (Vietnamese Chicken Curry)

Hội An, meaning the peaceful meeting place in Vietnamese, is as its name suggests, one of the most enchanting places in southeast Asia.

A small seaside town of just over 150,000 people, it is also a Unesco world heritage site, famous for the exceptional preservation of its architecture and traditional crafts like weaving and ceramics. A major regional port since the 15th century, Hội An was once host to merchants and traders from all over Asia and Europe who would bring and barter everything from gold and gemstones to ivory, spices, silks and textiles.

Today walking down the quiet, lantern-filled streets of Hội An is like stepping back in time. Restrictions on motorised traffic that unfortunately blight other towns and cities in Vietnam mean that Hội An has retained a dreamy old world charm. This is a blessing; for the history and diverse cultures that once called Hội An home are baked into the town like a wonderful layered cake.

Old Chinese merchant houses line the river. Japanese footbridges cover ancient canals. Down quaint paths and alleyways stone dragons writhe out and snarl from shrines and temple gardens. On the main street red lanterns and pink blossom burst from dark wood balconies and the mustard yellow facades of buildings. The seafaring traders of old may be gone, but in their place are a myriad restaurants, boutique hotels, art galleries and tailor shops - a vestige of the French, Hội An has a rich pedigree for tailored suits and boasts hundreds of independent tailors (a fully tailored summer suit or cocktail dress is a steal at less than $100 although factor in 2-3 fittings over two days).

Hội An is also a treasure trove for foodies, with the many excellent restaurants serving up a huge choice of tantalising local delicacies like spicy pork noodles, stuffed squid and fragrant curries. Many will also offer cooking schools for tourists eager to unlock the secrets of this vibrant vein of Vietnamese cuisine.

When in Hội An have lunch or dinner at one of the restaurants lining the main street like the hugely atmospheric old colonial house Morning Glory, making sure to grab a table from the rooftop overlooking the river. Admire the stunning architecture and bicycles gliding by the street below; and soak in the quiet serenity of this most peaceful of meeting places. Hội An definitely feels like the Vietnam of old.

Ingredients (serves 4)

1kg chicken legs

500g waxy potatoes (peeled, cut into thick slices)

2 carrots (peeled, cut into thick slices)

2 shallots (chopped)

2-3 cloves garlic (chopped)

2 stalks lemongrass (ends and outer layers removed, chopped)

1 large piece ginger (peeled, chopped)

1 chilli (deseeded, chopped)

2 bay leaves

1 stick cinnamon

2 tbs brown sugar

2 tbs fish sauce

4 tbs sesame oil

400ml coconut milk

1L water

Salt

Pepper

Fresh coriander

For the spice blend:

4 tbs bột cary Vietnamese curry powder (I use Vianco's Indian Chef brand; if you do not have Vietnamese curry powder use Indian-style madras curry powder which is similar).

If making from scratch: use 2ts ground coriander, 1tbs ground cumin, 1ts ground turmeric, 1tbs paprika, 1ts ground cloves, 1ts fennel seeds, 1/2ts cinnamon, 1/2ts cardamom seeds, 1/2ts nutmeg.

Preparation (1h30 cooking time; min. 2hrs marinading time)

1. Use half the spices or roughly 2 tbs to marinade the chicken for at least two hours or ideally overnight.

2. Make the curry paste. In a blender add shallots, garlic, ginger and lemongrass. Blend with 4-5 tbs water until it forms a smooth paste.

3. Heat 1 tbs sesame oil in a saucepan on high heat and brown the potatoes and carrots. This will help keep their shape in the sauce. Set aside.

4. Heat 2 tbs sesame oil and brown the chicken on all sides. Set aside.

5. Turn heat down to medium. Add 1 tbs sesame oil and fry the cinnamon and bay leaves. Add the curry paste and the rest of the spices and stir in for 30s. Add the chicken, potatoes and carrots. Add the sugar and water and turn heat down to low. Simmer uncovered for about 1h or until slightly reduced (the sauce should still be runny).

6. Just before the end add the fish sauce and coconut milk. Stir in well.

7. Garnish with fresh coriander and serve! As a side have rice or, even better, fresh loaves of bánh mì :)

TIP: In Brussels you can find all these ingredients - and more! - at Jin Long Trading supermarket (Rogier)