Carbonnade Flamande

In terms of the richness of its history, diversity and quality, Belgium really is the beer capital of the world.

Whites, blondes, brunes and ambers. There are so many varieties that no one can agree quite how many Belgium brews. Estimates vary between roughly 800 "standard beers" and up to almost 9,000 when counting special one-off brands. Each one has a unique history and profile - as well as its own specially-shaped glass to enhance the flavour.

There are centuries-old abbey beers as well as the six "trappiste" beers which are brewed by monks according to strict codes. White beers served on hot summer days with fresh lemon or dashes of elderflower cordial. Fruity lambic beers. Even everyday lagers like Jupiler or Stella Artois are top drawer and make up a huge part of Belgium's cultural export boom: Belgium is currently the number one exporter of beer in the world, at 1.5 billion litres, ahead of Germany and the Netherlands.

Belgium began brewing almost 1,000 years old, starting out as a pastime as well as a fundraiser for local monks. Indeed some of the most well-known Belgian beers are still steeped in religious iconography.

Leffe dates back to 1240 and has the Notre-Dame de Leffe abbey in the town of Dinant as its logo. Look out for Grimbergen's phoenix and latin motto ardet nec consumitur, meaning "burned but not destroyed", a reference both to the burning bush of scripture and to the abbey being burned to the ground and rebuilt several times over the years. The Westvleteren XII, considered by many as the best beer in the world, is brewed in the tiny Saint Sixtus abbey near Ypres and can only be ordered by phone, picked up by car and on the strict proviso that it not be resold under any condition. Matthew 7:7 Ask, and it shall be given you; Seek, and ye shall find. Knock and premium beer shall be dispensed?

When in Belgium, head to the beautiful Grand-Place in Brussels, the cobbled marketplace in the city centre framed by gold-embossed guild houses which are as old as Belgium's brewing tradition itself. In the southwest corner is the 14th century Guild of Brewers, now a museum run by the Union of Belgian Brewers. Admire the architecture from one of the historic cafés or restaurants on the square - along with a thirst-quenching Chimay, Leffe or Westmalle and a beer-based stew known as "carbonnade flamande".

Ingredients (4 people)

1kg beef (chuck steak, cut into cubes)

1 large onion (chopped)

1 tbs cassonade sugar

1L dark Belgian abbey or trappiste beer, e.g. Leffe or Rochefort

1 sprig thyme

2 bay leaves

2 cloves

8-10 juniper berries (crushed)

2 slices pain d'épices (gingerbread)

2 tsp mustard

25g butter

1 tbs olive oil

Salt

Pepper

Preparation (3hrs)

1. In a bowl place the beef, thyme, bay leaves, cloves and juniper berries. Cover with the beer. Marinade in the fridge for at least 2 hours and ideally overnight.

2. Drain the beef but keep the beer. Pat the beef dry. Discard the herbs and aromatics.

3. Melt the butter and olive oil in a saucepan on high heat. Add the onions with the sugar and caramelise (10min). Add the beef and sear on all sides. Add the flour and let the contents cook (5min).

4. Add the beer and turn the heat to low. Spread mustard on two slices of pain d'épices and place on top of the carbonnade (mustard side up). Cover and leave to simmer for 1.5 hours.

5. Simmer uncovered for about 1 hour or until the carbonnade has reduced to a thick consistency. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

6. Serve with some delicious homemade Belgian frites and a side salad!

TIP 1: This recipe uses the famous abbey beer Leffe brune. Other good options are the trappiste beers Chimay Bleue, Orval, Rochefort 8 or 10 and Westmalle Double.

TIP 2: For premium fresh meat in Brussels head to Wesley's Butcher Shop near Place de Jamblinne de Meux in the European Quarter.