Balinese Fish Curry

The island of Bali in Indonesia is one of the world's top tourist destinations.

Partygoers and backpackers mix with yoga enthusiasts and retirees from all over the world drawn to Bali's tropical climate, convivial atmosphere and welcoming people - as well as its abundance of beach bars and wellness centres.

There is so much going on in Bali it's easy to feel overwhelmed. And nowhere is this more apparent than in Ubud, Bali's cultural epicentre, about an hour's drive north of the capital Denpasar.

Ubud is a town in the middle of the jungle. It is intensely humid. It is also over one thousand years old. Every other building is a crumbling house or temple with traditional Hindu deities - all snarling tigers and grinning monkeys - carved into the stone. Wet markets sell fresh fish, meat, bright yellow jackfruit and fanged barong masks. Small stalls or warungs line the streets selling grilled chicken and fish curries wrapped in banana leaves. The locals provide daily offerings in the shape of garlands and paper boats holding fruits and flowers - and heady burning incense - which go on to adorn shop entrances, windows and even cars and toilet seats as a blessing that all goes well that day. Along with the ritual processions of traditional dancers, swaying rhythmically to the drums, gongs and cymbals of the gamelan music, Ubud is an intoxicating mix for all the senses. There is a reason why many travellers end up spending weeks or even years here.

When in Ubud, hire a scooter and spend a morning seeing the beautiful rice paddies and trying the luwak coffee (spoiler: monkey poo). For lunch head to Puteri Minang, one of Ubud's best warungs just off Monkey Forest Street for an amazing and great value fish curry.

Ingredients (2 people)

500g monkfish fillets

1 red onion (chopped)

2 garlic cloves (chopped)

1 thumb of ginger (peeled, chopped)

1 red chilli (deseeded, chopped)

1 lime

50g candlenuts or cashews

1 stick lemongrass

3-4 curry leaves

1 tsp ground coriander

1/2 tsp cumin

1/4 tsp nutmeg

1/2 tsp black pepper

1 tbs brown cane sugar

1 tbs fish sauce

400ml coconut milk

2 tbs peanut or sunflower oil

Fresh coriander for garnish

Salt

100g white or jasmine rice

Preparation (1 hr)

1. Prepare the paste. In a food processor or using a pestle and mortar, add the red onion, garlic, ginger, chilli, candlenuts (or cashews), spices and lime juice. Blend until smooth.

2. If not filleted, prep the monkfish fillets by chopping off the heads and tails and peeling off the tough outer skin with your fingers. Cut along the thick central bone on both sides to create two neat fillets. Remove any stretchy skin with your fingers (if not the fish will curl up in the pan). Chop the fillets into thick pieces.

3. In a pan over medium-high, heat the oil and sear the fish (1min). Remove the fish and set aside. Bruise the lemongrass and curry leaves and add to the pan. Add the paste and stir. Add the fish sauce, brown sugar and coconut milk. Season with salt. Turn heat to medium-low and let sauce reduce for 15min.

4. Cook the rice whilst the sauce is reducing.

5. Add the fish and cover. Leave to cook for 5-6min.

6. Garnish with coriander and serve.

TIP 1: In Bali the fish most commonly used is swordfish or mahi-mahi. For this recipe I used monkfish, another firm-fleshed fish which stands up well to the curry flavours and texture. Other suitable fishes are snapper and cod.

TIP 2: After chopping chillis rub your fingers with lemon juice to neutralise the heat. Your eyes will thank you for it later! TIP 3: In Brussels, Kam Yuen Supermarket in the city centre is an Aladdin's cave of Asian foods and spices. All the ingredients in this recipe can usually be found here (including the Bintang beer!)